Is the tag on the top of my twitter page. I am doing some home matiance on my blog and web site, while watching the Olympic Men’s Bronez Metal match between Finland and Slovakia. Slovakia has just scored and the score is now FIN 1 – SVK 1, half way through the second period.
Anyways, one of the thing that I have been working on is my tweets for twitter. I installed two WordPress plug-ins the past few days. The first is Tweetmeme. Tweetmeme is the little twitter retweet button you see at the bottom of each post. After reading a few blogs and articles that I found on Social Networking, I figured that I would get a little more active on Twitter. this is a good way for other blog readers, fans or whatever to tweet my blog post.
I also added another Twitter plug-in for WordPress that will tweet my post to my Twitter account with a Bit.ly URL. This is for those that aren’t reders of FishEye Studio blog, but are my Twitter Followers they too can enjoy what I have to say… right!
Continue Reading…
Several months back I posted on my blog Safety First about the importance of backing up your files and data, especially photo files. As you may have gathered I am a photographer. No matter what you may think of my photography it does not really matter. The point is I spend an good amount of personal time behind my lens trying to capture that perfect photo in a moment of time. So I can afford to lose any of my images no matter how bad they are. If I choose to delete them at least I made the choice and not a hardware or software failure doing it for me.
I brought this up because one of my Terabyte HD’s was filling up with all my system backups. I only had 50 gigabytes left on my primary backup HD. So I decided to delete all my backups up to November 1, 2009. It was simple, all I needed to do is find the folder and files under the Backup main folder a delete the folder I wanted.
I moved the no-longer needed folder to the trash. What I didn’t realize is how long it would take to actually empty my system trash once the deleted folders were in the trash. For the record it took just over 5 hours for the entire trash can to be emptied. That just over half a terabyte of free space has now been recovered. I am sure that in my obsession of backing up my system that it will only be a matter of month and I will be deleting a 1/2 terabyte of re-storable files and folders.
If you feel so inclined to read my previous post here is the link Safety First.
Adobe today released Lightroom 2.6, Camera Raw and DNG Converter 5.6. According to Adobe this willl be the final update to Lightroom 2.0. Next stop Adobe Lightroom 3.0.
In the new release from Adobe Lightroom 2.6, Adobe fixed previous issues that came to be in release 2.5. They also added new support from new camras that came to market since the last update.
Click here to get the download:
Known Issues
• Burning exported images to disc is not available for the Lightroom 64-bit Windows application.
• Upgrading a Lightroom 1 catalog during a catalog import can create multiple temporary copies of the catalog while upgrading
• Lightroom performance can be impacted when the Window’s Recycle Bin contains thousands of files
• Lightroom may not automatically launch an import dialog when a memory card is attached to a Windows Vista computer. Please select the Import button in the Library and select the attached card reader to begin the import.
• Lightroom 2.6 will not automatically migrate plug-ins located in the following directory: C:\Program Files\Adobe\Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 2\Modules\. Any plug-ins in this folder should be moved to: o XP: C:/Documents and Settings/{your_username}/Application Data/Adobe/Lightroom/Modules/ o Vista: C:/Users/{your_username}/AppData/Roaming/Adobe/Lightroom/Modules/
Supported File Formats:
• JPEG
• TIFF (8 bit, 16 bit)
• PSD (8 bit, 16 bit)
• DNG
• Proprietary raw formats (Please visit http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshop/cameraraw.html for a
full list of raw file support. File support for Lightroom 2.6 aligns with Camera Raw 5.6)
New Supported Cameras:
Support for the following cameras has been added in this update.
Canon EOS 1D Mark IV Mamiya M22
Canon EOS 7D Mamiya M31
Canon PowerShot G11 Nikon D3s
Canon PowerShot S90 Olympus E-P2
Leaf Aptus-II 5 Panasonic DMC-FZ38
Mamiya DM22 Pentax K-x
Mamiya DM28 Sigma DP1s
Mamiya DM33 Sony A500
Mamiya DM56 Sony A550
Mamiya M18 Sony A850
Important File Format Support Exceptions (Formats not supported):
• CMYK Files
• PSD files saved without a composite image. (Saved without “Maximize Compatibility” setting)
• Files with dimensions greater than 65,000 pixels per side (512 Megapixel Total)
• All video files, including those acquired by digital still cameras
New in Lightroom 2.6
The goal of this release is to address bugs that were introduced in previous releases of Lightroom 2 and provide additional camera raw support. A comprehensive list of issues fixed in this release is included below:
Lightroom 2 Bugs – Fixed
• The crop tool would unlock a locked aspect ratio after a rotation adjustment
• For Mac OS X 10.6 customers, visual artifacts could appear when panning an image viewed at 1:1 in
the Develop module.
• For Mac OS X 10.6 customers, the 10.6.2 update included a correction that prevented Lightroom 2 from opening more than two files using the Edit-in-Photoshop functionality.
• Lightroom 2.6 provides a fix for an issue affecting PowerPC customers using the final Lightroom 2.5 update on the Mac. The issue, introduced in the demosaic change to address sensors with unequal green response, has the potential to create artifacts in highlight areas when processing raw files from Sony, Olympus, Panasonic and various medium format digital camera backs.
• Lightroom 2.5 and earlier did not support the updated Panasonic DMC-LX3 aspect ratio modes added with the camera’s latest version 2.0 firmware.
Working with Lightroom 2 and Adobe Photoshop Camera Raw
Lightroom and Photoshop Camera Raw share the same image processing technology to ensure consistent and compatible results across applications that support raw processing. These applications include Photoshop CS4, Photoshop Elements 7.0 and Premiere Elements 7.0.
Photoshop Camera Raw 5.6
Adobe applications must be updated with the Camera Raw 5.6 plug-in in order to ensure compatibility with Lightroom 2 develop module settings and Photoshop integration features. Photoshop CS4 users can update the Camera Raw plug-in automatically using the Update tool listed under the Help menu. The Camera Raw 5.6 plug-in can also be downloaded and installed manually by visiting the Adobe web site: www.adobe.com/products/photoshop/cameraraw.html. Please follow the installation instructions carefully.
Sharing Lightroom Settings with Camera Raw 5.6
By default, Lightroom’s develop module settings are stored in Lightroom’s database. In order to ensure that Lightroom develop settings can be viewed by Camera Raw 5.6 the settings must be written to the XMP metadata block for that file. This metadata is stored in an XMP sidecar file (Imagename.xmp) in the current image directory of proprietary raw files or stored directly within DNG files. To update images with the latest develop settings, choose the library module and select the group of target images. Choose the shortcut Command(Ctrl) + S to save the settings to the XMP metadata block.
Viewing Lightroom settings in Camera Raw 5.6
Before working in conjunction with Lightroom and Camera Raw please set the Camera Raw preference to: Save image settings in: Sidecar “.xmp” files. By default Camera Raw will display the image adjustments exactly as performed in Lightroom’s develop module.
Viewing Camera Raw settings in Lightroom
Raw files edited by previous versions of Camera Raw will maintain their previous appearance when imported into Lightroom. Note: Those files must have been edited with the preference set to Save image settings in: Sidecar “.xmp” files in order for Lightroom to respect the previous edit. Files edited in Camera Raw after importation into Lightroom can be updated in Lightroom by choosing the “Read Metadata from Files ” from the Metadata file menu. Note: This menu option is only available in the Lightroom Library.
Additional Notes on Camera Raw and Lightroom
• Camera Raw will only read the current settings for the primary image in the Lightroom Library. Virtual Copy adjustments will not be displayed or available in Camera Raw 5.6
Err – (blinks)
Problem – Camera malfunction.
Solution – Release shutter. If error persists
or appears frequently, consult with Nikon-authorized service representative.
I know this is a direct translation from Japanese, but come on someone needs a new way of writing product manuals. This isn’t rocket science it consumer electronics…
Really the only way I could get the Err to stop flashing was to turn the camera off and turn it back on again. This would give one maybe two shots before I had to do it again… What am I talking about, I will explain.
About two weeks ago I ran into an issue while taking pictures at the San Francisco Fleet Week. The crowd was loud, the planes were loud so I really couldn’t hear if anything was wrong with my camera. All I could tell was every so often an image would come out extremely under exposed.
This issue started reoccurring more often to every other image would be so dark you could barely see the image. I first thought it was my CF memory card. I switched cards and got the same result. I decided that if it happened on a third CF card that it wasn’t a memory card issue. I was correct, in my assumption it wasn’t the memory cards.
Next I decided to clean my camera really well. Now that my camera is so clean you could eat breakfast off of… this didn’t correct the issue.
This last weekend I decided to continue to use the camera. Still with an every other image black out. However, now I was getting a message Err. I continued to shoot through this, but I would need to switch the camera on and off every time the “Err” would appear. This was a drag, but I didn’t have another camera to use. Plus it would still produce images (sort of).
I did notice that as I pressed the shutter release, I no longer heard the smooth movement of the mirror. The action had an inconsistent lagging electric sound. When I would check the image, it would be dark. So for self diagnosis I determined I was experiencing what we would call in the film camera world “Shutter Drag”. This is when the shutter would no longer operate properly and without a smooth precise open and close of the shutter. The picture result would give you an extremely under exposed image. I think the same type of problem is happening to me and is caused by the movement of the mirror.
Yesterday I took my camera back to the big box store where I purchased it in 2006. At the time of purchase I also spent the extra $100.00 for the extended service plan. I normally don’t purchase these, but on a camera (DSLR or Video) that is going to see some major wear and tear, I figure $25.00 and year was a good investment. Considering Nikon only gives you a one year parts and labor warranty.
The Geek Squad guy behind the counter that checked my camera in for repair made a good point. Most electronics manufactures only expect their equipment to last the length of the original warranty. Otherwise manufactures would offer longer warranties. Case in point major appliances i.e. washer, dryers and refrigerators, have you seen how long those warranties are?
I won’t have my camera back for 2 to 3 weeks. If for some reason they cannot fix or repair my camera or the cost of repair is more then to replace the camera they will refund the money and let me pick out a new camera. Not a bad deal considering the cameras have improved greatly and if I wanted to upgrade to a Nikon D300, it would cost relatively little out of pocket.
All I can do now is wait for the call…
I found my iLife 08, it was right were I left it. Actually it was with the supplemental install dicks. Remember those two grey disks labeled Disk 1 and Disk 2, well that’s where it was. It was confusing at first because when you install and run Disk 1 it shows you Mac OSX Tiger. Tiger is the old OS, which is why I was confused. You have to run Disk 1 first then Disk 2. Disk 2 is where the iLife 08 lives.
As of 10:00 PM Wednesday night, I completed the install of the last program MAC: Microsoft Office 2004. All I have left is to pick and choose some files to migrate back and some plug-ins for web based programs.
I am really glad I did this clean install and erase. When I purchased his MacBook Pro last year in Dec. I thought it was cool and easy to migrate all my user information that was on Magellan’s MacBook to my new computer. What I didn’t know, was this would migrate everything. Programs, plug-ins, files, folders, music, and anything else I didn’t want.
My notebook has a 120 GB HD, when I was done I had 60GB left and the 40GB of photos I have taken since last December took up of the rest of the hard drive. The is why it became very sluggish.
After the clean install of Mac OSX Leopard and only installing the MS Office 2004, Adobe Lightroom, Toast, iLife 08 and one copy of Photoshop, I still have a ton of room. According to the internal HD info I have used 20.3 GB that leaves almost 97 Gig of free clean space. My computer runs faster and the fan doesn’t run as often.
Time Machine works great on my 1 Terabyte external HD. Once Time Machine is set up, I plug the HD in either with the USB or Firewire connection and Time Machine does the rest for me. It backs up my system every hour.
When you initially set up Time Machine it will take longer then usual to back-up your system. However, every time after that It only backs-up the changed data. All other data is left the same unless it had changed.
If you delete something that you didn’t mean to, all you have to do is go back in time on Time Machine and tell it to load from that point. Wow, what a relief that will be, when I delete an entire photo album that I don’t have a copy of. I have done that!
My only issue that remains is trying to hook up the 1 TB hard drive up to the Airport Extreme to back up wireless. I can see the drive and download/upload to it, but the Time Machine program will not work through the Airport Express.
Start – 4:00 PM September 23, 2008
Finish – To Be Determined
After spending a few hours backing-up and doing an “install and erase”, will say “it was a success we have ignition.
As I left my house this morning at 4:30AM the 1 terabyte external HD was still going through its MAC OS Extended Journaled rewrite. When I checked on the process as I walked out the door, it still had three hours left… Whoa!
My only hiccup has been I cannot find my iLife 08’. I checked the Leopard install, I also checked the separate MAC OS install bundle disks.
Once I get the iLife 08 figured out I will finish the migration and software install.
Update to follow…
Well it’s time… It’s time to talk about storage and backing up files. If you are like me and in the last year, you’ve shot over 10,000 pictures, and have them stored on your laptop or desktop computer, you could be setting yourself up for catastrophic failure.
If your internal HD fails and you don’t have a backup of your files you may not recover them. Could you image losing all those important birth, wedding or vacations photos?
A little over a year I purchased a portable external HD from the now defunct CompUSA. It is a FireLite 160GB HD made by SmartDisk. It was on sale for around $119.99. Continue Reading…
I have always been very careful when it comes to my (DSLR) camera. Especially when I remove my lenses from the camera body, I am careful to avoid any dusk or foreign particles from entering into the camera or the lens. Unfortunately you can’t control everything and you will eventually get dust and other foreign matter into the camera.
The past few month I noticed minor dusk particles on my images. In post processing it was easy to fix minor blemishes. However, I was concerned my time in post processing was increasing in proportion to the amount of spots and other debris that was showing up in my images. I know that I would clean my lenses well before every use. I would also blow out the inside of the camera to reduce the amount of lose foreign particles.
My frustration was increasing until I realized that my “Sensor” could be the issues. Actually upon further investigation it isn’t the CMOS or CCD sensor that get fouled up, it is more likely then not the “low pass filter” that rests just a fraction of a millimeter above the sensor chip itself.
Recently I was at a day baseball game at the Oakland A’s stadium.
We got their early and had a little time to kill before the first pitch. I decided to clean my gear (lenses, camera). My lenses were immaculate. Not a speck of dust or spots on any of the outer glass elements. I took my time blowing out and debris from inside the camera. I was good to go.
Here is the reference image I took of my sensor, disgusting, yuck and phewy.
From the 2.5 in. LCD screen you can never see anything that small. Until you load the images on your computer that are blow up. My pictures that I shot against a light background showed everything, even stuff I didn’t know was there. I was so bummed out when I saw this, because I just knew it was now on my sensor.
I knew this would require a servicing. Because in my camera manual it states That Only Authorized Nikon-service technician should perform this procedure.
After further investigation I found out this is not as difficult as I was led to believe. I spoke to DSLR camera tech at Keeble & Shuchat and I could pay them $50.00 to service the camera and one lens. Or I could spend $20.00 and do it myself. I figured for the first service I would rather pay $50.00 and have it done right, and next time I will do it myself for preventive maintenance.
How To Create A Test Image
To Check For Dust
To make a test image, you can use about any lens you want but an non-wide angle lens works better then a wide angle just because of the normal falloff found in most wide angle lenses. You want as much of an even exposure as possible from corner to center. The second consideration is minimum aperture opening; we suggest a lens that will stop down to f/22 or greater. We have found that a great subject to shoot for the test, is your monitor. Seeing that you already have to use a computer to view your test, there is no need to go elsewhere to make the test. You already have a willing and qualified subject right in front of you, why not use it. Prepare your monitor for shooting the test:
- Create a new image in Photoshop
- Fill it with white (most any solid color will do, but we prefer a lighter one)
- Zoom in until it fills your screen
Set the camera to the following:
- Mode – Aperture Priority
- Setting – Aperture to minimum f/22-f/45
- Lens – Manual Focus set to closest focus setting (if shooting the blue sky, then infinity)
- Features – Turn “OFF” all special function like “sharpening”
- Take Picture – shoot camera facing your monitor. Depending how bright your monitor is, your exposure may be a couple seconds. During this exposure, move your camera back and fourth being careful to not to point the lens outside of your white box. Moving the camera during the exposure insures that you are not taking a picture of dirt on your monitor. This should be done within a matter of an inch or two from your monitor.
- Photoshop – Take the image into Photoshop and do a ++ for “auto level” You can lighten or darken if needed.
- Inspect Image – You can now see where you do or do not have dust. Remember that what you are looking at is an image that is flipped 180° (top to bottom) from when you’re looking straight in on your sensor. What shows on the bottom of the image will be towards the top of the camera and visa versa…
